We all have at least one great adventure on our bucket list. For some, it’s swimming with humpback whales in Tonga. For us, and perhaps other boaters in the Pacific Northwest, it was scouring Canada’s best-kept secret: Desolation Sound for anchorages that would give us bragging rights for years. (Is there anything better than responding to a compliment on a photo with “Yes, I took it in Desolation Sound ”?) This rugged knot of mountains in the remote reaches of the northern end of the Sunshine Coast feels like going back in time, and many famous cruisers have visited this beautiful part of British Columbia, including Brian Trautman from SV Delos, and Ben & Ashley Stobbard from Sailing Nahoa.
This place has been remarkably preserved as a living laboratory for scientists, and a rare display of pristine wilderness. One of the things that makes this region so special, is how the volcanoes, earthquakes, and floods built them over the last couple million years. But, even more how we managed to not destroy it during the great American expansion across the northwest.
The qualities that make this region so beautiful, has also made it vulnerable — homesteaders, large mining and logging corporations exploited the landscape for profit, but a few had different intentions and the land was privately purchased to aid its preservation.
We travelled on Odisea from Seattle across Desolation Sound to Tenedos Bay, a sheltered bay surrounded by lush forests and mountains, and is home to a variety of wildlife, including seals, sea lions, and bald eagles. It's a great place to swim, sunbathe, or simply relax and take in the stunning scenery of British Columbia. And wetsuits are not required! Desolation Sound has surprisingly warm waters, reaching up to 75 °F. There are also a number of hiking trails in the area, including one that leads to Unwin Lake, a beautiful freshwater lake located just inland from the bay.
You can access all the anchorages by boat, most of which are either totally or partly enclosed by low shoreline or high cliffs, islands, or mountainsides. If you're looking for an ideal place for swimming, scuba diving, fishing, and hiking, have your dinghy or tender ready. You can fuel up at Refuge Cove on petrol, egg sandwich, coconut yogurt and coffee before you begin a day of wilderness-scouring.
If you have the luxury of a few weeks, we recommend heading up to Dent Island for at least a couple of days. We arrived at the marina on a Tuesday morning. Dent Lodge is a decadent sight—all 7,000 sq/ft of it. We had a moment to take it all in before heading to lunch with the scenic backdrop of the Cordeo Strait and Canoe Pass Rapids.
For adventure, we suggest starting with the Dent Rapids for an adrenaline rush as you jet boat through whitewater and strong currents and some of the most scenic and remote waterways in the Bute Inlet. If you're looking for a more relaxed activity, we recommend arranging a salmon fishing excursion with one of their local guides.
After a day of thrilling and unforgettable experiences, there’s still plenty to do for those who want to do. You can (and should) go to the outdoor Rapids Grill at sunset and enjoy an aperitif while watching a variety of wildlife, including bald eagles, seals, and sea lions.
The following weeks of cruising followed a similar pattern, with stops at different anchorages, including Gorge Harbour, Mansons Landing, and Cortes Bay. By the end of the trip, we understood why Desolation Sound is beloved the locals and cruisers, and wondered why the hell would anyone ever allow this to be spoiled?
This landscape is a work in progress, and so is its protection. In the end, what's at stake is the future of waterways that serve as the lifeline for the extensive food and habitation complex running through this area, one of the most extraordinary regions in North America.
